From the Business and Human Rights Resource Centre
“After a two year investigation into conditions for workers at five factories in Mauritius, Transparentem published its findings and results of its engagement with apparel brands, prompting remediation and compensation for migrant workers who suffered a litany of labour rights abuses. Almost 100 garment workers from Bangladesh were interviewed in total for the investigation. At DDI, Firemount companies and R.E.A.L. Garments, workers reported experiencing working conditions including several indicators of forced labour: recruitment fee-charging, deception, abusive working and / or living conditions, intimidation and threats, abuse of vulnerability, audit deception and deficiencies, and inadequate response to grievances. Workers at Aquarelle also reported paying high recruitment fees for work. Other potential issues including restrictions on sick leave, incorrect pay and lack of freedom of association were also identified.
I have come here by spending so much money. How will I go back?
—DDI worker
Transparentem identified a total of 18 buyers sourcing from the factories, engaging with the buyers and management at the suppliers on the findings and recommendations. Seven approached brands – Armani, ASOS, Boardriders, Foxcroft, John Lewis Partnership, Kontoor Brands and Western Glove Works – reportedly did not participate in remediation on behalf of workers, four on the basis that they no longer sourced from the implicated factories though they did not deny sourcing from the factories at the time of the reported abuses. The remaining 11 formed buyer groups to remediate conditions at all four investigated suppliers, including commissioning audits which reportedly confirmed some findings, though no buyer or supplier provided the audit reports to Transparentem despite repeat requests to do so.
The suppliers provided policies in response to Transparentem’s request to comment on the investigation’s findings. All four denied workers had paid any recruitment fees. Management at DDI, Firemount and R.EA.L disputed most of the findings, excepting some on living and working conditions.
In May 2024, the Resource Centre invited all 18 garment brands to respond to the allegations and to provide information months after the investigation was made public, regarding the steps taken to investigate the allegations brought to it by Transparentem, to disclose audit reports for the factories, to confirm whether or not the brand was part of a buyer group and whether or not it had committed funds to remediate workers, and whether it committed to join the reimbursement efforts. Responses were received from Armani, ASOS, Boden, Centric Brands, Diesel, Foschini, G-Star RAW, John Lewis Partnership, PVH, WE Fashion and Woolworths. Boardriders, Foxcroft, Kontoor, Rodd & Gunn and Western Glove Works failed to respond.
In its response to the Resource Centre, PVH, Barbour and Second Clothing said they have committed to reimbursement for impacted workers at R.E.A.L Garments on a proportional basis to their production capacity.”
