India is the world’s second-largest producer of textiles and apparel and the sixth-largest exporter of textiles and clothing to international markets.[1] The Indian textile and apparel industries employ over 45 million workers[2] across all levels of production—from cotton farming to ready-made garment manufacturing.

Despite its global significance, the industry grapples with persistent challenges, including forced labor, unsafe working conditions, and child labor, often fueled by systemic poverty and weak labor enforcement. Tackling these challenges requires transparency, accountability, and collaboration among key stakeholders—including governments, civil society organizations, brands, suppliers, and consumers—to uphold ethical practices across the entire supply chain.

Exposing Child Labor and Forced Labor on Cotton Farms

Between June 2022 and March 2023, Transparentem investigated 90 cotton farms in Madhya Pradesh, India. The investigation revealed serious issues such as child labor, forced labor, unsafe working conditions, and risks to organic cotton integrity. Many children worked with pesticides without adequate protection, posing severe health risks.

Beginning in 2024, Transparentem traced the cotton supply chains to major suppliers and global brands, engaging 60 buyers to address these issues. In response, several buyers and suppliers are collaborating on remediation plans, including the Fair Labor Association’s Harvesting the Future project. Transparentem continues to advocate for long-term commitments and sustainable improvements for vulnerable workers and children.

Investigating Spinning Mills and Garment Factories

In 2016, Transparentem launched an investigation into spinning mills and garment factories in Tamil Nadu, India’s largest apparel export hub. The investigation uncovered indicators of forced labor as defined by the International Labour Organization (ILO) across four vertically integrated manufacturing groups. These included abuse of vulnerability, excessive overtime, abusive working and living conditions, restriction of movement, retention of identity documents, intimidation and threats, sexual violence, and isolation.

In December 2019, Transparentem presented findings to 31 companies identified as customers of these manufacturing groups. The resulting buyer engagement led to improved labor practices at three of the four manufacturing groups, marking a significant step toward ethical reform.